Thursday, April 5, 2007

Designer Capsule Collections Part II





I get quite excited each time a new collaboration deal is announced, although sadly I'm now located in a place where none of these are available -_-". I am extremely excited about the 3.1 Philip Lim collaboration with UNIQLO! Hopefully they will be released in NYC UNIQLO duriing my visit this summer! I'm sure I have made the point clear that Philip is one of my favorite new designers :). I have only managed to catch glimpses of these designs via Japanese fashion magazine. I absolutely adore the LWD, and the other pieces that were shown seem a bit different from the usual 3.1 Philip Lim style. They are yet more minimalistic, has less romantic detail and are more sporty looking.

I remember when Stella McCartney for H&M came out, I was in class and wasn't able to go queuing in the morning. I must say the Stella collection is my favorite for H&M capsules. She striked the right amount of design and detail, such that they actually looke like Stella McCartney design, without carrying too much detail, which could be a disservice given the not-so-exquisite quality. I also liked the Proenza Schouler for Target collection very much for precisely the same reasons. They have designed versions of their signature bustier dresses and tops for the capsule line, as well as the prints, novel proportions and shapes that characterize their designs. Pieces from their collection look incredibly young and fun, almost like a secondary line. That being said, I haven't had the chance to examine the quality and how good they look in real life though. Karl's design are simple, clean and sleek, which does reflect his usual style, but lack the level of elegance and creativity that we see in Chanel and Fendi. Nonetheless it was still a good collection. Viktor and Rolf was probably the most dissapointing for me out of the H&M lines, as the duo had put in too much romantic details which inevitably looked cheap under not-so-great quality fabric and assembly. They also did pieces like classic trench and simple pencil skirts, which require high quality fabric and craftmanship to achieve the desired result. Not to mention that I found the heart motif rather cheesy.

I am really looking forward to seeing the celebrity-designed capsule collections. The eagerly anticipated Kate Moss's first attempt to fashion design is definitely on the top of my list. From photos I have seen from http://www.topshop.com/ and the fitting footages, it appears that her collection is a fine reflection her edgy, cool, and rather careless sexy persona. The collection does look very Brit and fits well with the general image of Topshop. M by Madonna doesn't have the kind of loud, punk, daring statement that I initially expected. The designs look more modern, sexy, and simplistic, and it strangely reminds me of Bebe for some reason. Out of all these collaborations that I have discussed, the one that I really cannot understand would be Scarlett Johanson for Reebok. Reebok started as a brand that sells design-above-performance active apparels. It had been losing ground to Nike's premium performance marketing and Addidas' superior designs and highly successful designer crossover lines. I would say their effort to make a come back with Scarlett's tasteless design is at best futile and is unlikely to attract any clients other than junior high girls who not yet have a good sense of style. The trying-to-be-sweet heart prints look cheap tacky and the heart shaped cutouts make the garments look torn. The cuts and colours lack sophistication and are unflattering. Scarlett might be an acting talent, but definitely not a designing one.

(Above from top: M by Madonna, Kate Moss for Topshop, Scarlett Johanson for Reebok)

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